Shoe-sewing machine



- Patented Dec. 3, [90L E. NDBMANOUI.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Apr. 14, 1898.) (No Model.)

[2 Shanta-Sheet L lnQenror Enoch vormaqdu I x Q I 59% 1m: "cams PETERS 00., wasnmdnm, na,

. E Patented Dec. 3 19m;

' NDRMANGUT.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

I2 Sheets She'et 2 .No. 687,966, Patented Dec. 3, IQOI.

E. NURMANCUT.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

Application filed Apr. 14 1898.) (No Model.) l2 Sheets-Sheet 3.

figocbvovwwpcut, lnvenror WimessQs THE NORRIS PETERS co, inlAsmzvai-on, n. c.

' l2 Sheets Sheet 5.

' Patented Dec; 3,1901] N0: 687,966. E. NQRMANCUT.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Applicatinn filed pr 14, 1898) (No Modei.)

Invenror E006 )ov I mii Pa tented D6 3, IBM.

E. NURMANCUT. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

12 sheets She st 6.

(No Model.)

lnvenior QK/EZW Wimesses @{Qwfi o Patented Dec., 3, [90L E. NDRMANCUT.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed. Apr. 14, 1898.]

' l2 Sheet sShae( 7. I

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N0. 687,966. atented Dec. 3, I901.

E. NUBMANCUT. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Applicafiibn filed. Apr. 14, 1898 I (HQ Model.) I '12 shea -Sheet 9. in I v I! {I} r w WW M y W M H" W w A I 'M Ii '1! I g; 1 IMP; i

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sun: SEWING MACHINE.

(Applicatimi filed Apr. 14, 1898.\

(No llodc al.)

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l2 Shsets$heet l0.

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II'IIIIII W II mu H M I II Patented Dec. 3, I901.

Apr. 14, 1698] l2 Sheets-Sheet II.-

E. NURMANCUT.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed fiz IIIIII III I, III II I NI 3 III IIIIIIII woiszzzisc,

III II n IIIIlI IIIIIIIIII,

x5 IHorneys III g3 W ML" I J m IIII IIIIIIII (No Model.)

No.-687,966.- Pat ented Dec. a, 190i; E. NDRMANCUT.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed. 4px. 14, 189B.)

l2 Shuts-Sheet I2.

Invenror E 051 Dormupwk, I

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UNITED STATES PATENT 'OFFIoE.

ENOOH NORMANCUT, MONTREAL, CANADA, ASSIGNOR TO THE COLUMBIA WIRE SEWING LOOK STITCH MACHINE 00., LIMITED,

A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE;

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 687,966, dated December 3, 190i.

Application filed Aprill i, 1893.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ENOCH NORMANC UT, a citizen of the Dominion of Canada, residing in the city and district of.Montreal, Province of Quebec, Canada, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in ShoeSole- Sewing Machines; and I do hereby declare the I inside of the shoe and withoutcuttihg a chan no], without turning, and without piercing a hole through the sole of the shoe.

A further object is to provide a machine in which the sewing material will be passed to a regulated distance from the top of'the sole regardless of its thickness.

A further object is to provide a machine with means for automatically regulating. the

. stitch without regard to the thickness of the sole.

A further object is to provide adnst-proof shoe-horn containing the mechanism for operating the upright needle.

A further object is to provide a machine of this class in which the Wire to form the stitch is formed in continuous strips.

A further object is to provide a machine of this class with means for corru gating the wire her before it is passed into the sole, preventing its easy withdrawal. I

To these and other ends not particularly herein set forth my invention consists in the improved construction and combination of parts hereinafter fully described, and particularly set forth in the appended claims.

' In the drawings, in which similar letters of reference indicate similar parts in all of the views, Figure 1 is a side elevation of a. per-- tion' of my improved machine, showing the general construction of the operating portion.

. Wheel for feeding the wire.

Serial No; 677,634- (No model.)

Fig. 2 is a front. elevation of the same. Fig.

3 is a horizontal sectional view of the body, taken at a point a slight distance above the horizontal driving-shaft, the view showing the means for regulating the height to which the upright needle is to be passed. Fig. 4

is a vertical longitudinal section of the up per portion of the-body and a portion of the head, the section showing the shooteroperating. cam, the side-ucedle-operating cam, and the connections between the sideneedle carrier and its operating-cam. Fig. 5 is a vertical transverse view; of the parts shown in Fig. 4, the view being taken at right angles to that of Fig. at and on the line 5 5 of Fig. 6. Fig. 6 is a horizontal sectional View of the body, taken on the line 6 6 of Fig. 5 and showing the position of the shooter-operat ing cam-face.

line 7 '7 of Fig. 4, the View showing the sideneedle-operating cam and the general form of the shooter-plates. Fig. 8 is a central longitudinal sectional view of the head, showing the various cams mounted on the upright shaft and also showing the various operating lar view taken above the feed-bar-operating cam, showing the lever-bar plate, the feedbar, the operating-cam for said feed-bar, and the wire-feed rollers. Fig. 12 is a horizontal sectional view of the lever-bar plate, showing the wire-feeding rollers, the passage for the wire, the cutter, and the'side-needle carrier. Fig. 13 is a sectional view taken on' the line 13 13 of Fig. 12. Fig. 14 is a sectional view taken generally on the line 14 lat'of Fig. 16, showing the feed-bar spring-actuatedpin, the means for mounting the wire-feed lever, and the construction of the feed-bar-operating 1evor. Fig. 15 is a cross-sectional .view taken Fig.7 is a horizontal sec-" tional View of the body portion, taken on the Fig-11 is a simion the line le 15 of Fig. 12, showing the sideneedle carrierandits guides. Fig. 16is ahori zontal sectional view taken from the above cutter-lever-operating cam, showing the cam, the cutter-bar lever, and the parts located be low the line of the section. Fig. 17 is a horizonta l sectional view of one of the cam'o perating'ends of the cutter-bar lever, showing the means for adjusting the movement of said lever. Fig. 18 is a horizontal sectional View taken on a line above the feed-bar operating lever, show g he operating-cam, the feedbar-operating lever and its connections, and the various other parts located below the line of the section. Fig. 19 is a vertical transverse section of the head, taken at right angles to Fig. 8. Fig. 20 is a horizontal sectional view taken one. line above the wiper-cam and showing the rocking lever for operating the pressure-bar, the cam which operates said lever, the slide for regulating the height to which the upright needle passes, the wiper-cam for operating the slide,the spring forapplying the pressure to the upright-needleregulating mechanism,and the guide at the front of the head, said guide containing the-pressure-ba-r anditsoperatingmechanism. Fig.21isafront elevation of the head with the face-plate of the guide removed. Fig. '22 is a vertical longitudinal section of the shoehorn, showing the operating parts, the manner in which it is connected to the body, and the movement of the upright needle. Fig. 23 is a detail of the upper end of the needle-bar. Fig. 24 is a tie tail view of the rocking frame, showing the slideblocks for operating the needle-bar.

Fig. 25 is a sectional view of the upright needle, showing the grooves for the wire, the opening for the passage of the wire, and the gear-wheel within which it operates. Fig.26 is a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 25. Fig. 27 is a sectional View of the rocking lever operating the pressure-bar, showing the hinged joint. Fig. 28 is a similar view showing the stitch formed in sewing three pieces of the leather sole together and also showing the difference in the depth of the loop when sewing through the varying thicknesses.

, In the sewing of the shoe-soles to uppers by machinery it has heretofore been the practice to make the stitch of two varying forms, one of which is the chain-stitch formed by the-use of the McKay machine and the lockstitch as formed by the use of the Goodyear machine. Both of these machines make use of thread waxed during its passage through being the fact that thread is used, the thread being easily worn through, and when worn the stitches are liable to become loosened, the wax coating on the thread being the only means for holding it in place. Another disadvantage consists in the forming of the channel, this requiring a waste of time both in forming the channel and then closing it after it has been formed, while a shoe in which this channel is formed wears faster by reason of the fact of the liability of it becoming loosened whenever one portion. of the turned down portion becomes worn through, thus exposing the sewing-threads. Some of these disadvam tages disappear in the use of the Goodyear process, in which the sewing is from the inside of the shoe, the stitch being known as'the lock-stitch, which eliminates the liability of the sole becoming loose when one of the threads becomes worn through; but in this process the shoe must be turned after sewing, which necessitates the reshaping of the shoe after having been sewed, causing a loss of time, in addition to which some shoes are entirely ruined in the turning, thus making an entire loss. Both processes require the use of waxed thread, which is disadvantageous, as the thread is easilyworn through and the wax coating becomes hardened, causing the threads to break if the sole is bent. To obviate these various disadvantages and provide a strong and substantial fastening, yet which will allow the sole to be flexible, I make use of the machine hereinafter described, which sews with spooled wire instead of thread, the machine forming a lock-stitch which will secu rely unite the sole, no matter what its thick: ness may be, to the upper, the sewingtaking place from the inside of the shoe, by means of which no channel is required to be cut in the sole, nor needthe shoe be turned after being sewed. In addition to this the stitch is entirely hidden and there is no surface which is liable to be worn through quickly, as in the case of the channel.

To form the stitch-seam, which will be hereinafter described in detail, I provide a ma chine which I now proceed to describe in detail.

In each of the figures of the drawings the, machine is shown with all operating parts 10- ITO cated in the same relative positions, excepting in Fig. 12, wherein the cutter is shown as having reached its limit of outward movement in order that the passage of the wire into the opening in the cutter may-be clearly shown.

A designates the frame or body of my machine, which is in the form of ahollow column, having a suitable pedestal. (Not shown.) At the rear end of the frame or column'A is provided an integral bearing a, within which is mounted a shaft a, which forms the driving power for the machine. A suitable friction-clutch a serves. to connect the power from the main driving-shaft a to the drive shaft, the friction-clutch being operated by suitable treadle mechanism, (not shown,) the friction-clutch us ed necessarily being such as will enable the machine to be at all times under the control of the operator and which will also serve to stop the machine automatically at a predeterminedpoint of its revolution upon release of the treadle, the mechanism being such that the machine will always return to its initial position before stopping. The shaft 0. is extended longitudinally across and through the frame A and has its free end provided with a earn a The cam a is located in an extension a", formed at the front of the frame A and has its front face a slight distance in rear of thea'xial line of the upright needle. The shaft a is mounted in a suitable bearing 09 111 the rear of the cam a Mounted to have vertical movement within a suitable vertical bearing a formed in the extension a is a suitable plunger of'lthe lower end of which is mounted in a suitable guide a The plunger a is connected tothe cam a by means of a suitable roller connectim,

- the cam a serving to give the plunger a vs"- ti-cal movement for a purpose to be hereinafter described. The upper end of the plunger (Wis provided with an opening aflwithin which is adapted to be placed a whirl a the whirl being provided with a quick-acting screwthread ct, which is adapted to cooperate with a similar screw-thread formed on the plunger a within the opening (L The whirl a is provided at its lower end with a suitable gear o to operate which I provide a suitable sliding rack a, the rear end of which is connected with asmall gear-Wheel a, mounted on a suitable removable bearing-plate secured to the extension 0, and within the frame A, said small gear-wheel being operated by means of segmental gear (1. mounted on the vertical shaft a.

It will be apparent that when the shaft a is rotated the segmental gear 0J will be oscillated and will in turn operate the sliding r'aclt a through the medium of the gear-wheel (1.

the movement of the sliding rack n beingcommunicated to the gear a onthe whirla thus causing the whirl a to be rotated, and inasmuch as the connection between the whirl a and the plunger of is formed by means of screw-threads the whirla will be moved vertically in said plunger a distance correspond ing to the distance which the rack a travels, a long movement of the rack (4 raising the whirl a to its upper limit of movement.

The upper end of the whirl a is provided with an annular flange a", between which and the topof the plunger a are mounted suitable guide-blocks (1 (Best shown in Fig.2t.) The slide-blocks (1 are pivotally connected to one end of, a rocking frame a, pivot-ally mounted, as at- 03, within the shoe-horn a The rear end of the rocking frame a is provided with a pivotally-mounted needle-bar e in the upper end of'whieh is mounted the upright needle d the connections being by means of minute screw-threads a. To cause the upright needle to have an. exact vertical move ment, I provide a suitable guide a within the shoe-horn near its'top, against which a slide-block n formed integrally Within the needle-bar a, is adapted to have movement, a sleeve ofilserving to prevent the needle-bar from moving in an opposite direction and away from the guide c0 5. \Vhile the sleeve d serves to prevent the needle-bar from having a tendency to move away from the guide e yet as an additional safeguard to make the movement of the needle-bar true and exact I provide the needle-barwith suitable shoulders at, which are adapted to have movement against the face of similar shoulders a, formed within the shoe-horn. parent, therefore, that the movement of the needle-bar d cannot be varied, the slide block n preventing its movement in one direction laterally, while the sleeve a and the shoulders a to prevent its movement in the opposite direction. The upright needle n is formed of suitable material having its contour preferably slightly oval in cross-section. the oval and at the point of greatest diameter the needle a is provided with a suitable groove a formed, preferably, as shown in Figs. 25 and 26, the groove at one end of the oval having a connection with the opening (L 9, formed in the base of the upright needle.

The extension 61,5 of the frame is provided with a vertical opening a within which is adapted to be placed to have a rotary move It will be ap-' At the ends of.

ment the lower end of the sl1oe-horn a, said lower end being provided with an opening a beveled gear 04 mounted on a suitable shaft a in the shoe-horn Cd, is adapted to mesh and operate. a a beveled gear a is adapted to cooperate with a similar gear'ct mounted on the shaft n which. extends upward through the horn to'the'top, the upperend of the shaft (1- being provided with a gear e adapted to operate asmall beveled gear a which in turn op crates a similar gear a, mounted in the shoehorn-at its top and which is adapted to receive the oval portion of the needle a By means of this construction it will be obvious that as the shoe-horn is rotated within its bearing inthe extension (t t-he rotary move ment of the shoe-horn will be communicated a revolves with the shoohorn while the nee-- die remains stationary it will'be apparent that the needle-oar a willhave a movement about the needle; but inasmuch as the connection between the needle-bar and the nee-- At the opposite end of the shaft die is made by means of the minute screwthreads a the vertical movement of the needle within the needle-bar itself will be but slight and will have no effect whatever upon the operation of the needle itself. As the needle 0, must be subjected to a considerable amount of pressure, it will be apparent that the connection between the needle-bar and the needle must be strong, and it is for this reason that I make use of the minute screw-' threads a- To prevent a downward movement of the needlebar n beyond its proper distance, I providea suitable buffer-cushion ctflby means of which the downward movement of the rear end of the rocking frame a will be stopped with a cushioned movement, thus preventing any undue effect which might be caused by the rocking frame contacting with a solid stop orbuiter.

The shoe-horn (1/ is mounted on a center point e4 formed in a bearing n this construction serving to retain the horn in its true alinement. A removable cap a serves to close the opening formed at thetop of the bracket portion of the shoe-horn, and thereby closes the inside of the horn against theentrance of any foreign substances. A suitable guide a for the upright-needle wire extends upward through the body of the shoe'horn. A suitable bracket to is removably connected to the shoe-horn, which bracket is adapted to contain the spool u."-,\ vhioh carries the wire adapted for use with the upright needle, the wire passing from the spool upward through the guide at into the opening a, formed in the base of the needle, and then carried upward and over the top of the needle and within the groove a, the end of the wire when the first stitch is made being bent over the upper end of the needle (L23 to form-a loop. This is done to enable the needle to carry the wire loop into the material being sewed. After the first stitch is made, however, this is not required, as the end of .the wire is secured in the material in fixed position, the needle carrying the wire into each successive stitch automatically until the entire material is sewed when the wire for the upright necdle'is cut off and the shoe removed.

l3 designates the central vertical upright shaft, which is adapted to be driven by means of a suitable gear connection h, operated by a shaft ct. The shaft B extends upwardly through the cap-plate Z) and head I and has removably affixed thereto the cams hereinafter described for operating the various portions of the machine which have not been described.

To better explain the various operations of the different cams, it is thought bestio describe each in detail in the order in which" they are placed upon the shaft, beginning with the lower'eam'and following with the cam above and last described. As hereinbefore explained, the figures of the drawings show the position of the cams on the shaft H lower plate 0.

with relation tocach other, all being shown at the period of irrigation of the shaft B when the machine is iii'position for the making of a new'stitch, the material having been fed forward, as hereinafter described.

The first oath to be described is the camface 11 formed on the under side of the facecam Zr, hereinafter described. This cam serves the purpose of operating what I term a shooter-frame 0, formed of two plates 0, located above and below the face-cam b the two plates being connected together by suitable braces c. The lower plate cis provided on its upper face with an integral lug '0 which is adapted to form a bearing for the contact-roller 0 which rides against the camface 0 and serves to give the shooter-frame a vertical downward movement. Secured to the inner face of the frame or body A and a;- diame't rically opposite sides thereof are brackets 0, having suitable openings for the reception of pins 0 adapted to have vertical movement in said openings, the upper ends of said pins abutting against the lower face of the Springs 0 are mounted in said openings surrounding the shank of said pins and serve to-force the shooter-frame upward when the contact-roller 0 passes from its position on one portion of the cam-face b to its other position. The upper face of the upper plate ois provided with suitable pins 0 which are adapted to extend upward through the cap-plate l) for a purpose which will be hereinafter-described. These pins are arranged on opposite sides of the central line drawn longitudinally of the machine, the pins being arranged in series, the front series having a greater length than the rear series, and therefore extending to a greater height.

It will be obvious that when the contactroller 0 is riding against the raised portion of the cam-face b the shooter-frame will be held in its lowermost position against the action of the springs 0; but when the roller has reached the point of changing the springs c willcause the shooter-frame to move upward with a quick'motion, inasmuch as the change in the position of the rising face of the cam h is abrupt. When the cam-face b has been rotated a sufficient distance for the contactrolier c to contact with the opposite changingpoint, it will be readily seen that the shooterframe will be moved downward against the action of the spring c", but with a slower movement than that of the upward movement of the shooter-frame, inasmuch as the change is less abrupt that the change hereinbefore described. As the contact-roller c is located above the. lower plate 0, any downward movement of the contact-roller a will force the enc downshooter-frame G be capable of moving to va- .rious heights, it is essential that the frame 0 have a yielding upward actuating means,

ing means is provided by the pins 0 and springs c, which force the frame 0 upward until its movement is stopped by means hereinafter described. This stop may occur before the contact-roller reaches the height of the one portion of the cam-face b in which case the roller 0 will not make a contact until it reaches the changing-point, where the shooter-frame O is again moved downward.

The face of the cam b is form ed, preferably, as shown in Fig.- 7, from which it will beseen that the period of operation is confined to half of its revolution. The operating-groove formed in the face of the cam is adapted to receive a roller 0!, connected with a sliding link (1, which is mounted to have movement in'the guides d formed in the cap-plate b. The upper end of the link (1 is bifurcated to receive an extension 6 formed on the lower portion d of the side-needle carrier 1), The

extension (i is provided with an elongated slot (1 adapted to receive apin d which connects theextension d with the bifurcated portion of the link d. The needle-carrier D is preferably formed of the lower portion (1 and upper portion (1 the connection being made by suitable screw-threaded pins 61 which are adapted to force the upper and lower portions 61 (1 toward each other and firmlybind and hold the side needle (1 which is adapted to be placed within suitable grooves formed on the meeting faces of said upper and lower portions. As the side needle must necessarily be placed at the center, the pins 61 are provided with suitable openings, through which the needle passes, as best shown in Figs. 4, 12, and 15. Suitable nuts 01 are socured on the pins d and serve to bind the upper and lower portions of the needle-can rier I) together.

It will be apparent that as the shaft B rotates the roller cZ will follow the contour of the operating-groove formed on the face-cam b and cause the link d to have two move-' ments forward and backward in its guides, the one following, the other with but a slight period of rest between the two motions, and that the first motion will be of greater length than the second, while the forward movement of the link will be quicker on its first motion than on its-second. The link 01, .being mounted in guides fixedly formed on the cap-plate b, will have an exact central horizontal movement which cannot vary, while the side=needle carrier is mounted in guides formedin the lever-oar plate, which is adapted to be raised and lowered. As the link d and side-needle carrier 1) are movably connected together, the connection being an automatically adjustable one, and both are mounted in guides, it will be obvious that any movement of the link (2 caused by the operating-groove of the face-cam Z1 will be cam [1 E designates a slide-plate mounted within a recess formed in the top of the cap-plate Z).- The slide-plate E is provided with an opening e, within which the side cam 5? is adapted to operate, the said slide-plate being provided with a bearing-plate c, against which the side of the cam is adapted to operate during a portion of its revolution. A bearing-spring 0 connected to the slide-plate E, serves to move the slide-plate E forward when the outer face of the cam 0 contacts with the operating-face of the spring The set-screw e secured in the cap-plate b and extending into the recess of the cap-plate, serves to regulate the distance forward which the slide-plate can IDOVG.

It will be apparent that while the rearward movement of the slide-plate is fixed, its normal position being as shown in Fig. 9, the forward movement must be capable of being regulated by reason of'the factthat the stitchseam is formed at varying distances from the edge of the sole in diiferent styles of shoes, and as the movement of the slide'plate must correspond with this varying distance amovable contact-plate must be formed to enable the cam b which has a fixed movement, to operate when the movement of the slide-plate E is limited by the position of the set-screw c and this is accomplished by means of the bearing-spring c Inasmuch as the parts of the mechanism operated by the cam b are connected to the lever-bar plate, it is thought best to describe this plate in detail before describing the action of the cam b and the mechanism it operates.

F designates the lever-bar plate, which is adapted to rest on the rear portion of the slideplate E at its rear end and on an adjustable pin a, located at the front of the cap-plateb'.

The lever-bar plate is bifurcated at its rear end and has pivotally connected with said bifurcated portion a block f, which is secured to the slide-plate E bymeans of the tappingscrew f. The plate F is provided in its front portion with a suitable longitudinalguidef within which the side-needle carrier D is adapted to be movable, as hereinbefore explained. At the front end of the lever-bar plate F a suitable transverse guide f is provided, within which is adapted to be placed the cutter, the operation of which will presenily appear. A cap portion f is secured'to the front of the plate F and serves toret'ain the feed-bar in position and also serves as a rear support for the sole when the feed-noseis disengaged from the edge of the sole.

To the under side of the lever-bar plate F is pivotally secured the Wirefeed-operatiug l6VB1'f which is operated by means of the One side of the lever f is provided with a suitable spring-actuated pin f, the

front end of which is adapted to contact with and rotate a ratchet-wheelf mounted in a suitable bearing formed at the side of the lever-bar plate, the movement of said ratchet- IIO - rollers f f' 'be-ing slightly corrugated by the lever-bar plate F to the go idef the wire passsuch manner that the front of the pin will .cated portionf This rearwardly-extending wheel serving to operate a small grooved roller f mounted in said bearing s ecured'to the side of the leverplate F. A similar grooved roller'f is removably secured in a removable bearing connected to the leverbar plate in juxtaposition to the aforementioned bearing, the rollers f f being mounted in such a position that an opening is formed between them through which the wire passes, the rollers forming a contact. with the wire as it is passed from the wire-reel f into the passage f, formed in the lever-bar plate F, the wire in passing between the grooved corrugations formed in the grooves of the rollers. The passage f leads through the ing through the passage and into an opening formed in the cutter, as hereinafter described.

In order that the side needle cl can pass outward through the center of the front of the lever-bar plate F, I provide a suitable openingf as'clearly shown in Fig. 12.

It will be apparent that as the cam i is rotated it will cause the lever-f to be moved in eoact with the ratchet-wheelf thus feeding the wire forward a fixed distance at each revolution of the shaft 13, and at the same time the wire will receive the slight corrugations by reason of the corrugated faces formed in the groovedrollers f f The lever-bar plate F is provided with an opening f, through which the shaft B passes and within which a cam 11, the purpose of which will now be set forth, is mounted to be actuated by said shaft. The upper face of the lever-bar plate is provided with a re cess f, within which is adapted to be placed and have movement the rear end of the feedbarf This feed-bar is provided with an elongated slotf adapted to receive a fixed stud f", formed on the lever-bar plate F; The rear face of the feed-bar f is adapted to contact with the face of the cam b at all times and is held in contact by means of the spring-actuated stud f, located in the opening f in the feed-bar, as clearly shown in Fig. 14. The front end of the feedbar is bifurcated, as atf and in the opening formed by said bifurcated portion is adjustably mounted the feed-nosef, formed substantially as shown in Fig. 1c. The feed-nosef is adjustable in said opening by reason of the set-screw f said screw serving to regulate the distance of the extreme front end of the feed nose from the center of the upright needie, in order that the feed-nose maybe regulatedaccording tothe distance it is desired to have between the stitch and the edge of the solevof the boot or shoe. The feed-nose is formed substantially as shown in Figs. 11, 14c, and 16, being provided with a rearwardly-extending portion which fits within the bifurportion is provided with a slot, as best shown in Fig 14, through which and the bifurcated end is passed a pin, which holds the feed-nose in position against vertical movement. The nose beingadjustablelongitudinally by means of the set-screw f will beheld against longi tudinal movement excepting when being adjusted. By this construction it will be apparent that as the cam I) rotates the feed-nose f will be brought into and out of engagement with the edge of the sole of the boot or shoe and allow, by reason of its being withdrawn. within the opening at the front of the leverbar plate F, the feed-bar to have its position changed, as hereinbefore described, without any liability of the boot or shoe being carried backward with it during its movement in preparing for a new feed.

Pivotally mounted on the upper side of the lever-bar plate F is the cutter-lever G, the front end of which is provided with an opening g, to receive a pin-and-collar connection g, formed on the top of the cutter 1 The rear end of the lever G is bifurcated, the in nor face of the bifurcated ends being adapted to engage the face of the cam 6 The cam-acting faces of the bifurcated end of the lever are pivotally and adjustably mounted in suitable slotted openings to allow of the exact regulation of the movement of the cutter at the front end of said lever, as best shown in Fig. 17. The cutter is provided with an opening g Within which the wire is adapted to be fed by means of tho leverj when the cutter is at its farthest point away from the longitudinal center of the lever-bar piate F. By this construction it will be apparent that when the lever G is at its farthest movement on one side the cutter g will be in such position that the wire from the passage f will pass into the opening g" a sufficient distance to form the desired length of bur, the length of bur being regulated by the movement of the lever f against the ratchet-wheel f". As the cam--12 is moved it will cause the lever G to be oscillated on its pivot, thus moving the cutter g toward-the longitudinal center of the lever-bar plate F, this movement causing the wire to be cut otf, as will be clearly u ndcrstood by referring to the drawings. The movement of the cutter is continued toward the center until the opening 9, which contains the bur which has just been cut off from the wire, comes into alinement with the opening f the side needle, which is then in position for driving the bur into the opening in the sole of the boot or shoe formed by its first movement, then driving the bur forward, the side needle passing through the openings g' f during the operation. After the side needle has inserted the bur into the sole of the boot or shoe and has been withdrawn the cutter is moved backward into position for the reception of a new bur, when the operation is repeated.

Pivotally mounted on the pivot-point upon which the lover G is mounted is the feed-ban operating lever II, the front end of which is provided with an elongated slot h, adapted to receive the pin-and-collar connection it,

' formed with the feed-barf. The rear end a in Fig. 1s.

provided with the spring-bearing h. construction is such that as the cam b is reslidable pressure foot t".

of the lever 11 is bifurcated and is adapted to be operated by means of the cam If, as shown Oneo-f the ends of the lever H is provided with a cam-acting face h pivotally and adjustably mounted within a slotted recess h in a manner similar to that shown in Fig.17, while the opposite end of the leveris This tated the lever H will be oscillated to move the feed-n osef backward and forward across the frontof the lever-bar plate F and forms the means for feedingthe work. By reason of the peculiar shape of the cam h, as shown in Fig. 18, thefeed-bar after carrying the work forward its full distance, and thereby bringing the wire from the reel on the shoehorn to the full length of movement of the work, the sudden changein the face of the cam 11 causes the feed-bar to have a short movement backward, causing the work to be carried back, and thereby creating a slightslack in the wire for-the upright needle to allow of the needle moving into the sole without drawing on the spooled wire, preventing any tendeucy of the wire to cut the sole of the boot or shoe when the upright needle makes its next stitch and allows the needle to more easily pass into the sole.

I designates the head of the machine, which is secured to the cap-plate b by suitable capscrews. The head I is provided with a transverse opening i, within which the various cams herein described are adapted to operate, and also with a longitudinal opening 1L, communicating with the transverse opening 1', the lever-bar plate F beingadapted to operate in said longitudinal opening. The front of the head I is provided with a guide 2' having a vertical slot 7 for the reception of the The guide 2' is provided with a transverse slot t which communicates with the vertical slot and serves to allow of the passage of the pressure-bar lever and the upright needle adjustment mechanism to the pressure foot 2'. The pressure-foot 2' consists of a slide-bar i adapted to slide within the vertical slot i and has its lower end provided with a removable pressure-plate The slide-bar i is also provided with a vertical slot z'hwithin which is adapted to slide the ad justmentslide "5 which slide is in turn provided with a vertical slot t, which communicates with the slot in the guide t. The upper end of the adjustment-slide 2' is provided with a within which the pressure-releasing screw 2 is adapted to have movement, said pressurereleasing screw being provided with a screwthreaded' opening, within which the ad ust the rocking-lever J.

tug-screw 11 has its movement. Adj ustingnuts 2' are mounted on the said adjustingabove the feedcam 12 is a side cam b within which one end of apivotally-mounted rocking lever J isadapted to have operative connection by means of a suitable pin-ande roller stud j, operating in the grooved faceof the cam. The opposite end of the leverJ extends forwardly into and through the slots 2' and 2 the adjustment-slide 2' normallyresting on the upper face of the forward end of said lever. Between the pivotal pin j of the rocking lever and the front end of said rocking lever the lever is provided with a hinged joint 7' the construction being such as to form an open-ingji having oppositelyinclined sides at the top of the lever, thisopening j being adapted to receive a suitable friction-blockj normally held incontact with the inclined sides of the opening bymeans of a spring f. 1'

To the top of the cam b is secured-a suit: able wiper-cam b, which is adapted to ride against the face of a wiper it, formed on the 1 rec end of a slide K, mounted to have longitudinal movement in the head I. The slide K is provided on one side with a suitable racksegmental gear k mounted on the upper end of the shaft a Pivotally connected to the front end of the slide K is a sliding wedge 70 the front end of which extends through the slots 2' 11 and i below the front end of K may have a quick action when released from contact with the wiper-cam Z9 I provide an actuating-spring 70, which serves to force the slide K toward the shaft 13.

As shown in the drawings, the'frout end of.

In order that the slide to hold the pressurebar i above the work to be done and allows of the in'se-rtionbf the work on the shoe-horn and allows the feednosef to move the work forward. As the cam b carrying the wiper-cam h, is rotated the wiper-cam h contacts with the wiper 7t and causes the slide K and the sliding wedge is to be moved forward against the action of the spring 75, thus releasing the adjustment-- slide i from its locked position. After this is done the rocking leverJis oscillated on its pivotj by means of the roller connection j, riding up the inclined face of the groove in the cam 11 this movement of the rocking lever serving to force the pressure-bar i downward on the face of the sole which is to be sewed. As the thickness of the sole is sometimes greater than the distance between the upper face of the shoe-horn and the lower face ef the pressure-bar when the pressurebar is 1n its lowermostpositiornand asthe movement of the rear end of the rocking lever J is the same in all cases, and as such movement of the rocking lever would cause a too great pressure on the sole, I have provided the hinged joint 7 as hereinbefore described, this construction enabling the rear end of the rocking lever J to move upward to its upper position while the lower face of the pressure-bar rests on the sole of the shoe without increasing the pressure on the sole, the front end of the lever remaining stationary, the bloclry" being forced upward against the action of the spring as the rollerj passes up the inclined face of the groove on the cam 6 and when the pressure on the sole exceeds the resistance of theblockj, which resistance is regulated by the shape of the opening. After the roller 3 has passed up the inclined face of the cam b and the pressure of the lever is applied to the pressure-bar the wiper-cam 1) passes beyond contact with the wiper 711 and the spring ,lrforces the slide K rearward until theinclined face of the sliding wedge k binds against the lower face of the lever J and the lower face of the slot t thus locking the pressure-bare in fixed position and preventing its upward movement until released by the wipe cam 1) again coming into contact with the wiper It on its next revolution.

Byreferring to Figs. 8 and 21 it willbe ap parent that the adjustment-screwt will raise and lower the adjustment-slide 2' to adjust it, and such adjustment regulates the distance between the lower face of the pressure-plate t and the upper face ,of the shoe-horn, this adjustability allowing of'the sewing of soles of varying thicknesses. This adjustment, however, is used to regulate the general thickness, such as sewing shoes with two soles or with three soles, as desired. The individual adjustment for each shoe-that is, the passing from thick to thinner portions of the same soleis done automatically, as hereinafter explained.

The pressure-relasescrcw 1' forms the connection between the adjustment-slide i and the pressure-bar i yet the specific purpose of this screw is to raise the pressure-bar '5 whenever the machine is being operated to exhibit the working of the parts or when itis desired to move the machine only apart of its revolution, the rotation of the screw i serving to raise the pressure-plate i above the limit of movement of the upright needle.

By reason of the construction hereinbefore set forth it will be perfectly obvious that the movement of the lever J will be fixed by rea-- son of the actuating-groove in the cam Z1 9, and this would tend to increase the pressure on a sole of great thickness; but this increase of pressure is eliminated by theautomatic pressure-regulating means formed by the hinged jointj the pressure being the same whether the sole be thick or thin. "When the proper amount of pressure has been applied, the pressurebar t is locked in position by the slide-wedge [a moving inward until its upper edge con tacts with the lower edge of the front cndofthe rocking lever, and this position is maintained until the upright needle and side needle have both performed their work,when the pressure is released, as herein described.

In the stitch formed by the machine de scribed it will benoticed that the loop extends into the sole to within a certain distance from its outer face, and this distance remains the same irrespective of the thickuessof the sole. This distance maybe varied as desired by adjusting the screw 71 in an obvions manner, especially when it is remembered that the movement of the adjustmentslide 1 is the same without regard to its relative position with the pressure-bar t.

By referring to Fig. 28 it will be seen that the length of each loop varies with the thickness of thesole, and inasmuch as it is desired that the loops must extend to within a predetermined distance of the face of the sole, as hereinbefore explained, this variation in the thickness requires that the movement of the upright needle must be automatically varied ina corresponding manner, and it is to perform this work that I have provided the slide K and raclcgear 7c, the operation of which will now be described.

As the adj ustmen't-slide 1' moves downward with the pressure-bar '5 the movement of the rocking lever 5 allowing of this downward movement, it will be apparent that when the pressure-bar does not move downward its full limit of movement, which is the case when sewing, the adjustment-slide will have a similar shortened movement, and as the space between the lower face ofrthe front end of the lever J and the lower end of the slot t is lessened in an obvious manner when the pressure-bar does not pass down to its full limit of movement, the sliding wedge k will be prevented from passing inward to its full distance when actuated by the spring is. This necessarily limits the movement of the slide K, and therefore limits the oscillatory movement of the shaft a toa corresponding extent. As the lower end of the shaft (1 is provided with a segmentalgearwliich must necessarily have the same movement as the gear k this limitation of the movement of the gear M will limit the movement of the segmental gear a, and by means of the gearwheel a necessarily limits the movement of the rack a. As the rack a is adapted to impart a rotary movement to the whirl a it will be seen that alimitatiou of this movement of the rack a will vary the height to of the quick-acting screw-threads. When i the whirl a has reached the end of its upward movement caused by the action of the rack a, the movement of the whirl a being 

